Cooking or The subtle art of healing.

It is a bright Goan afternoon and I am in chef Sarita Carvalho’s kitchen at Tempero, the Goan specialty restaurant at ITC Goa, learning to make rava fry and stir fried mushrooms. Dressed in a monogrammed apron and a chef’s hat, it is my first time in a restaurant kitchen and I am as excited …

An Eid in Lucknow

I grew up a vegetarian in Lucknow. Okay, I will repeat if it doesn't register. Yes, I did grow up a vegetarian in a city that is celebrated all over the world for its kebabs and biriyani. And until 24 years of age, I hadn't even seen what the kebabs or biriyani here looked like. …

Lebua Lucknow: changing the way the city eats – and lives.

The Lucknow I left behind in 2001 was a sleepy town. The youth, like me, would call it 'best if both the worlds' perhaps to cover up for its small townness and lack of any fun things. The only nightlife I'd heard of were parties that Akhilesh Yadav threw - he was a young man …

What to Eat in Allahabad — and Where.

At 6:30am the fire has been lit. A pot-bellied halwai swiftly beats yeasty batter, a young man fills pastry dough with spicy potato mix, a small crowd meanwhile has already gathered in anticipation of their breakfast—crispy jalebis and spicy samosas. Welcome to Allahabad—or Prayagraj?—the land of early morning breakfasts and Ganga-Jamuni flavours. Food is everywhere …

Mohan Mahal — Thousands of Mirrors, Hundreds of Candles.

Imagine a glass palace illuminated by hundreds of candles with a mosaic of mirrors glistening on the ceiling and tiny pieces of glass gleaming on the walls. While you are only settling in, imagine a convoy of servers arriving with the land’s most exquisite cuisine, chefs bringing in their signature dishes, and butlers carrying the …

A food Trail in Old Delhi — Minus the Clichés.

Hot, humid, dusty, and congested, the lanes of Old Delhi can overwhelm the most experienced, but, if one can look beyond the heat and dust, the narrow labyrinths of Shahjahan’s capital reward with treasures unlike any other. While most of us see the food of the walled city through a handful of restaurants – and …

Lebua, Lucknow — A Poetry in Brick and Mortar

Lucknow is known world over for its cuisine and culture, but not many know that until not very long ago, the city was also known for its architectural finesse and design sensibilities. Thanks to the newly opened lebua Lucknow, a heritage property, the world is waking up to Lucknow’s lost architectural splendour – one courtyard …