What to Eat in Allahabad — and Where.

At 6:30am the fire has been lit. A pot-bellied halwai swiftly beats yeasty batter, a young man fills pastry dough with spicy potato mix, a small crowd meanwhile has already gathered in anticipation of their breakfast—crispy jalebis and spicy samosas. Welcome to Allahabad—or Prayagraj?—the land of early morning breakfasts and Ganga-Jamuni flavours. Food is everywhere …

Dum Pukht Begum’s, An Aristocratic Culinary Journey in Hyderabad

The first thing that catches the eye is the crystal chandelier; amethyst couches and gilded candle-stands are next, and, by the time you enter the carpeted hall, resplendent with arches and columns, china and crystals, you are certain that you are in an aristocratic Nizami home, but then, Dum Pukht Begum’s is no less than …

Mohan Mahal — Thousands of Mirrors, Hundreds of Candles.

Imagine a glass palace illuminated by hundreds of candles with a mosaic of mirrors glistening on the ceiling and tiny pieces of glass gleaming on the walls. While you are only settling in, imagine a convoy of servers arriving with the land’s most exquisite cuisine, chefs bringing in their signature dishes, and butlers carrying the …

A food Trail in Old Delhi — Minus the Clichés.

Hot, humid, dusty, and congested, the lanes of Old Delhi can overwhelm the most experienced, but, if one can look beyond the heat and dust, the narrow labyrinths of Shahjahan’s capital reward with treasures unlike any other. While most of us see the food of the walled city through a handful of restaurants – and …

Lebua, Lucknow — A Poetry in Brick and Mortar

Lucknow is known world over for its cuisine and culture, but not many know that until not very long ago, the city was also known for its architectural finesse and design sensibilities. Thanks to the newly opened lebua Lucknow, a heritage property, the world is waking up to Lucknow’s lost architectural splendour – one courtyard …

Mother’s Recipe – Not Half as Effective as Mother’s Cooking

घुइयां की सब्जी और रोटी। I grew up a vegetarian and still remain primarily a vegetarian. This means good food isn't limited to or comprises only of meat for me. In fact, all things close to my heart are simple vegetarian dishes which I grew up eating. Like most of us, I reckon. I started …