What to Eat in Allahabad — and Where.

At 6:30am the fire has been lit. A pot-bellied halwai swiftly beats yeasty batter, a young man fills pastry dough with spicy potato mix, a small crowd meanwhile has already gathered in anticipation of their breakfast—crispy jalebis and spicy samosas. Welcome to Allahabad—or Prayagraj?—the land of early morning breakfasts and Ganga-Jamuni flavours. Food is everywhere …

Making of the Muri Mix or Laiyya Mixture.

Muri. Murmura. Laiyya. Mamra. This humble puffed rice has as many names as it has uses: soak and make poha out of it (try it!), Grind it and make sattu with it, fry it and make a snack out of it, mix it up with other fun things to make jhaalmuri or bhelpuri, or, as …